After saying goodbye to Rob in Whitehorse, Paul and I had a long day flying to Vancouver and then back up to Port Hardy at the north of Vancouver Island.
We spent the night in a delightful B&B called Chocolate and Serenity. The host made her own chocolates in a commercial kitchen in the basement, and so our room came with a bowl of gourmet chocolates. Our host said she had a bear in her back yard three days ago, so we were hopeful of seeing one, but unfortunately we didn’t.
Our highlight in Port Hardy – apart from the chocolates – was seeing two bald eagles quite low in a tree. When we stepped a little too close, they took off simultaneously and flew down towards the water, so we got a good look at them. There was another pair flying around, and two young ones in a nest behind our B&B.
The next part of our trip was the one I was most looking forward to – a 4-day whale watching camp. We were picked up from Telegraph Cove in a water taxi. It was extremely windy that day – apparently highly unusual – and the water was quite rough. After a 25 minute trip, we were dropped onto the beach at our camp.
The camp accommodates just 10 people in 5 canvas tents on platforms, looking out to the bay we were in. We had actual beds in our tent, but nothing else apart from deck chairs. It was basic but comfortable. (The long drop toilet was not so flash). All meals are served “family style” in an open-air dining room. There was even an outdoor shower with a view!
We were served lunch and then taken on a short walk on the trail to a couple of lookout points. The island was only about 1km by 1km and the trail did not go all the way around the island. So unfortunately for Paul, he had to resign himself to the fact that he wasn’t going to get 20,000 steps in on these next few days. It was too rough to go out that afternoon, so we just relaxed in our tent. I did some yoga on the deck, we snoozed and read.
The next morning we got up early for our first whale excursion. It was foggy, and thankfully the water was very calm, so it made for a very atmospheric setting.
It didn’t take long to find humpbacks. In the calm, quiet waters the sound of them breathing through their blowholes travelled really clearly, and at one point we were surrounded by humpbacks in all directions, just our boat in the fog, with whales surfacing and blowing all around us. It was magical.
We went back for breakfast – pancakes – and then heard on the radio that there were orcas not far away. Of course, I really wanted to see orcas for myself, as they are one of my favourite animals. But even more, I wanted there to be orcas for Kev, a fellow Australian on the tour who had planned his whole 6 week Canadian trip around this part, as he also loved orcas (possibly more than me!). But Kev had never seen them before, whereas I have several times.
Thankfully, we saw three different pods, including a bull with a massive dorsal fin. They weren’t doing anything particularly interesting, just gliding along, but at one point one did surface enough that we could see the white patch around its eye. Kev and I were very happy. We also saw a sea lion that had caught a fish, and two bald eagles that were fighting over something in mid-air.
Later that day while the rest of the group went out fishing, Paul and I went kayaking with our guide, Kelly. At one point there was a humpback that seemed quite close to us, so that was pretty awesome.
The next day we had a clear day and made several more excursions to see both orcas and humpbacks. We also had some Dall’s porpoise surfing on the bow of our boat, which was fabulous because you could clearly see them in the water below.
A real highlight was watching a humpback who appeared to be lolling about on a piece of kelp on the surface. He was rolling around, waving his fins. Very cool to watch.
On our final morning it was foggy again, and we could hear humpbacks but couldn’t see them. But the highlight of the morning – and actually, for me the whole trip – was being surrounded by about 400 dolphins leaping, jumping, backflipping. Everywhere we looked, 360 degrees around us, there were dolphins. And they also surfed on our bow and did leaps right next to us. It was an incredible experience, one I will never forget.
We said goodbye to our hosts and had a calm trip back to telegraph cove, where the group had lunch together. We then parted ways and Paul and I headed to Port McNeill for the night.
The next day we took a bus to Campbell River. I spent the whole time looking for bears because a taxi driver had told us that he often saw them on the side of the road. We then picked up a hire care – an absolute beast of a truck – and drove to Tofino, a picturesque town on the west coast of Vancouver Island.
Tofino is a popular little town surrounded by rainforest, wild surf beaches on one side and calm inlets on the other side, in the Clayoquot Sound. We stayed in an AirBnB that had a lounge and kitchenette, a hot tub and amazing views over the water. As well as a delicious breakfast, including pastries fresh from the bakery!
We spent our time doing lots of little rainforest and beach trails. I also got two yoga classes in and Paul some running.
It was quite foggy most days. Our host told us that they called it Fogust instead of August. It was incredible to watch it slowly creep in towards us. So we would be on the beach but not really able to see the water unless we walked right up to the edge. But we did also get some clear afternoons and fabulous sunsets.
Now, by this point we had been in Canada for two and a half weeks and had not seen a bear. Back when we were in Banff, Paul said he wanted to see a bear while we were out walking. I said “careful what you wish for” to which he exclaimed “I DO wish for bears!”. So we were pretty keen, and decided to book a bear watching trip.
We went out on a boat with 10 other people and cruised the inlets at low tide when the bears come to the water’s edge looking for crabs. We were delighted to see several bears, with glossy black coats, foraging amongst the rocks. They were not at all bothered by the boat, and as they were right on the water’s edge, we were able to get way closer than you would ever want to get to a bear on land. We could hear him pick up rocks and put them back down. Some birds followed behind, opportunistically riding on the bear’s efforts. At one point a bird got too close to the bear (or to his crab) and the bear quickly turned and snapped grumpily at the bird, who hopped back in a hurry. Another memorable experience.
Later that morning as we were driving down the highway, a black bear ran across the road in front of us. He leaped the concrete barricades and ran into the rainforest. We couldn’t believe our eyes. Paul remarked “Nearly three weeks without a single bear, we pay $250 to go and see them, an hour later one crosses the road in front of us.”
On our way out of Tofino we went for a beautiful walk in Ucluelet called the Wild Pacific Trail. The trail wasn’t wild – it was well maintained in amongst the rainforest – so I think the reference was to the Pacific Ocean being wild, because that’s what the walk overlooks. All along this coast are piles of massive pieces of driftwood. I’m talking logs that you could build a house with!
We spent our final evening at Nanoose Bay. My old housemate in Banff, Susan, and her husband JB, own a trailer there, and kindly offered it to us.
The best bit was that Susan and JB were there too, as it’s a long weekend in Canada. So we got to have breakfast with them on our final day in Canada on the final day of Summer. Then Paul and I made our way from Vancouver Island to the airport in Vancouver via ferry, bus and sky train.
As usual, I think I spent more time planning this trip than I actually spent on the trip itself, but it was worth it. We have had a wonderful time, seen so much, had amazing experiences with nature and wildlife, caught up with old friends and made new ones. This visit has only reconfirmed my love of Canada and I am already dreaming about when I can visit again.